Two Canadians at Pépoulie in autumn

Céline and Jim spent the last week of October and three weeks of November here, and wrote the following six postings Meandering thoughts and pictures. Read some of the things they did, mostly on foot or using the bikes we have for guests, and how much they enjoyed their stay.

Meandering thoughts and pictures (6)

Wind tower hopping: France, apparently, has one of the fastest growing wind tower economies - just look north from Pépoulie and ten kilometres away on the horizon you will see the newest addition to the wind tower farming community. We cycled to see this particular wind harvest just outside Seviès. But the best wind tower viewing is to the south of Puylaurens, outside the historic and picturesque town of Saint Félix Lauragais. Here you can see fourteen of them. Eye candy or eyesore???



Apple pie: 'tis the season for apples to continue their longstanding temptation of the world. We bought bags of them for one euro a kilo at the local market, tasted about ten varieties, and became experts at making tarte Tatin. It's on page 41 of Pépoulie's resident cook book The Impressionists' Table.

Meandering thoughts and pictures (5)

Pastis and pétanque: on any sunny afternoon on the driveway leading up to the gîte, a game of boules with a pastis in hand ensures that you get to go native at least once in France.

Fire and tea or wine: although the autumn weather doesn't require too many fires, on the few nights when there was wind and rain we relished our time in front of the woodburning stove, with wine or tea in hand, and chestnuts roasting, marvelling at how the gîte warmed up.

Wind...stars...sunsets: from the northwest corner of the pool or from just out the back door, we spent many late afternoons and early evenings admiring the sun bled sky, being lulled by the wind blowing through the tall poplar trees, and practising our very limited astronomy skills. You should be able to easily see the Big Dipper, the Milky Way, and with a little concentration, the North Star.

Meandering thoughts and pictures (4)

Monsieur Rastoul: the wee garden farm that Pépoulie looks down on to the northwest holds our fondest memories, and had our favourite tourist attraction: Monsieur Rastoul. He is a diehard farmer and longstanding citizen of Puylaurens, who will greet you as if you have been friends for ever. We thoroughly enjoyed our visits with him at his well tended plot of land, and everywhere else that we bumped into him!

Markets: our favourites were Saturday morning in Revel and Wednesday morning in Réalmont. Both of these are an easy drive (about 20 minutes) and have a tremendous selection of food and various other things. No touristy elements, just authentic French market shopping. Having said that, our most rewarding market experience was right in Puylaurens - mainly because after one week we were chez nous. We recognised the vendors and they recognised us!

Meandering thoughts and pictures (3)

Walking: again, the tourist office offers maps for various routes. Although we did the 6 kilometre Boucle de Saint Etienne de Florac right from the gîte most often, our preferred route was La Boucle d'Ardialle - a bit of a hike at 14 kilometres, but worth the effort for the variety of landscapes and farmscapes it provided. Alternatively, do this one counterclockwise, and turn round in Montgagnes.

You'll know the turnaround point because you will be met by Tina, the hamlet's friendly watchdog. She will even escort you part of the way back to Puylaurens. 
Her turnaround point is the end of the forest tunnel, where she stops, sits and watches as you carry on home past the pigeonnier of La Métairie Haute.

Meandering thoughts and pictures (2)

Cycling: the tourist office in Puylaurens has a variety of maps that allow you to pedal the hills near and far. Our favourite was Un circuit vélo des pigeonniers (C16) - well marked with very distinct signage, not too hilly, about 39 kilometres, and departing right from Puylaurens centre and heading south.

Meandering thoughts and pictures (1)

Foraging: we picked chestnuts, walnuts, figs, mint, bayleaves and dill on the side of the road, in abandoned farmyards, and on the many walking and biking paths that we wandered down. 

We also profited from others' foraging by spending ridiculous amounts of money on the crazy mushrooms, dug up from who knows where, that appeared at all the local markets. Curious looking but absolutely delicious!